The Canary Islands and the Balearic Islands Spain

Spain's alluring island archipelagos have both received mediocre press in recent years due to over-development, but you have only to look beyond the new buildings to find wonderful scenery, vibrant local colour, tranquillity, and peace. In the western Mediterranean, the Balearics comprise a sunny cross-section of landscape from mountainous Majorca to low-slung, sleepy Formentera. The volcanic Canaries in the Atlantic, just off the coast of North Africa, thrive as a semi-tropical escape for those in search of winter sun. And within each of the archipelagos, every island has its own character.

The Balearics Majorca

For decades, Majorca (Mallorca in Spanish) has been Europe's playground. The largest tourism concentration in the world focuses on the southern Bay of Palma and, to a lesser extent, on the northern Bay of Alcudia. Outside these areas, there's still plenty of unspoiled Majorca to delight in, and the scenery is fantastic.

The island measures 72 km (45 miles) by 96 km (60 miles), and well over half of the total population lives in the animated and cosmopolitan capital city of Palma de Mallorca. Palma's tree-shaded central promenade, Es Born (the islanders speak a Mallorqui dialect of Catalan), is the hub of the city's social life.

Rebuilt for the medieval kings of Majorca after the Reconquest, the Palacio Almudaina now houses a local history museum in one wing. Overshadowing the palace's delicately arched and covered balconies, the magnificent Gothic cathedral, La Seu, founded in 1299, is more than a match for anything the mainland can offer. For great views, head for the cylindrical keep of Castillo de Bellver, which has commanded the land and sea approaches to the city since the 14th century.
Exploring Majorca's 965-km (600-mile) coastline clockwise from Palma, Port d' Andratx lies close to the western tip of the island, on a sheltered bay popular with yachtsmen. Near Banyalbufar, boasting of some of the finest terraces on the island, is La Granja, a cross between a stately home, craft centre, traditional farmhouse, and museum of rural life.

Frederic Chopin and George Sand stayed at the monastery of Sa Cartuja, near Valldemosa, in 1838-1839. Today, coach loads of curious visitors descend on the monastery to see the garden suite the couple rented and displays of related memorabilia. Deia, a pretty hilltop town built with honey-coloured stone, is probably the island's most attractive town, and a good base for visiting the Tranmuntana region in the northwest. A favourite haunt of the independent traveller, there are few beaches here, but a spectacular (if hair-raising) corniche road affords magnificent views.

The town of Soller is linked to Palma by a delightful narrow­gauge railway. Its polished wood carriages make the hour-long journey through orchards and terrific mountain scenery. An old San Francisco-style open tram then travels the short journey down to the seaside and the pretty harbour of Port de Soller.

Port de Pollença is the sort of seaside resort that has given Majorca a good name with its lovely beach and inoffensive accommodation. A road runs from here to the cliffs of Cabo Formentor, the northernmost projection of the island. The most popular tourist excursion on Majorca is a trip to the caves peppering the east coast. A two-hour guided tour of the Cuevas del Drach (Dragon's Caves) takes in all sorts of dramatically lit formations. It is said the Cuevas de Art so impressed and inspired author Jules Verne that he went off and wrote Journey to the Centre of the Earth.


Minorca Spain

Minorca (Menorca in Spanish) is one-fifth the area of Majorca, and receives a smaller fraction of the visitors. A tranquil, low- key island, Minorca's main tourist development is in the west. The north is more scenic, but many beaches, both to the north and south, can only be reached on foot or by four- wheel drive vehicle.
The main town and deep-water habour of Mahon was occupied by the British for a large part of the 18th century. The little city clusters on the cliffs above the port, and buildings in the older quarter of town have a distinctly Georgian appearance. A boat trip around the harbour makes a fun excursion.

Ciudadela (Ciutadella), on the west coast, also has a fine harbour, but is more akin to Andalusia than old England. Ses Arcades, the street leading to the Gothic cathedral built in the 14th century, is all archways and completely Moorish. Visit the city museum in the town hall (Ayuntamiento) for its rather curious rag-bag of island history. The best beach and resort on the island is Cala Santa Galdana, a beautiful horseshoe-shaped cove developed in a restrained fashion. Fornells, on the north coast, is another relaxed resort and still an active fishing port.

Ibiza Spain

Once the favourite of Europe's hippies, Ibiza now caters to the seriously hip, from assorted rock stars and artists to dance-crazy youths who pack the high-rise hotels and nightspots of the island's busiest resort development at San Antonio Abad. Dalt Vila, is a cobbled maze on a hillside packed with whitewashed houses, tiny bars, shops, flea markets, and restaurants serving local fare. If you are planning to tour Ibiza, you can pre-book cheap Ibiza car hire from the airport.

The capital, Ibiza Town has two archaeological museums boasting a treasury of Carthaginian art. One, the Puig des Molins, is built adjacent to a necropolis, and tours of the burial chambers are given. The beaches start immediately south of town, but the best, and certainly the trendiest, on the island are generally agreed to be those at Las Salinas. Other good spots include Portinatx and San Miguel in the north. You can see regular displays of folk dancing and visit caves at San Miguel.

Formentera Spain

The 11-km (7-mile) sea voyage from Ibiza takes 75 minutes by boat, or around half that by hydrofoil. Either way, it's often a bumpy ride. There is no airport here, and very little water, which has hindered any large-scale development. Building on Formentera is restricted to a maximum of four storeys. Once the sole retreat of the backpacker and laid-back beach bum, Formentera is now catering for package tourists. They come for much the same reasons - unimpaired horizons and endless beaches. Windsurfing aside, Formentera is the perfect resort for families who want to avoid the hustle and bustle of the busier Spanish islands.

Tenerife Spain

The largest of the Canaries, Tenerife offers more attractions and more contrasts than any of its island neighbours. The busiest local package tourism destinations are Los Cristianos and Playa de Las Americas, in the southwest. Santa Cruz de Tenerife (northeast) is the capital and admin­istrative centre of the westerly Canaries. Though not a beauty, it has undeniable Spanish charm and several picturesque squares and gardens, such as flower-bedecked Plaza Weyler at the end of Calle Castillo, the main shopping street. A short walk away, the Parque Garcia Sanabria is famous for its fountains and floral clock.

The city's best museum is the Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes, which displays some fine Spanish and Flemish works. The adjacent church of San Francisco is also worth a visit. Close to the seafront, the Iglesia Matriz de la Concepcion dates from the 16th century and contains historical relics. North of town, the island's best beach, Las Teresitas, stretches in a golden crescent of Saharan sand for almost 1 km (I mile).

On the north coast, Puerto de la Cruz is a popular resort where the lack of a decent beach has been remedied by the wonderful Lago de Martianez. This 3-hectare (8-acre) seafront complex has swimming lagoons and sunbathing terraces which are landscaped with palms. The charming pedestrianised street of Calle de San Telmo descends into town, passing the majestic 17th-century Iglesia de la Pefia de Francia (Church of the Rock of France). The many cafes, restaurants, and shops on Plaza Charco, the main square, are busy at all hours.

At Loro Parque, the world's largest collection of parrots (over 230 species) is on show in beautiful sub-tropical gardens. Other attractions include flamingos and performing dolphins. The oldest local attraction is undoubtedly the Jardin Botanico, founded by royal decree in 1788, and located on the road to Orotava. On the same road, Banafiera EI Guanche is a working banana plantation with a great collection of exotic flowers, trees, shrubs, and cacti. Cheap airport car hire is available from both Tenerife airports and can be booked before you travel.

Above Puerto de la Cruz, the well-preserved town of La Orotava, with a nice collection of stately mansions, ancient churches, and cobbled streets, is dominated by the Byzantine dome of the Iglesia Nuestra Senor de la Concepcion. Don't miss the 17th-century Casa de Los Balcones (House of the Balconies) for its lovely courtyard, restored apartments, and handicraft displays.

The highlight of the island in every sense, Mount Teide is a volcanic cone in the Las Cafiadas del Teide National Park, and Spain's tallest mountain at 3,717 metres (12,200 feet). Particularly beautiful in May and June when the wildflowers are in bloom, the park's spectacular scenery makes for great hiking. There is a visitor centre with details of walking trails, including one to the top of Mount Teide. You can take the cable car (teleferico) to with­in 160 metres (500 feet) of the summit (long queues in summer).

Gran Canaria Spain

Almost circular in shape, Gran Canaria is small enough to explore within a week, yet it has been described as a continent in miniature. The coastline ranges from awesome cliffs to golden dunes; inland, you can choose between stark mountains and tranquil valleys. It is also well-supplied with beaches, shopping, and sophisticated nightlife.

Bustling Las Palmas is a major commercial centre, cosmopolitan resort, and seaport all in one. The heart of the city is Santa Catalina Park: one gigantic outdoor cafe that buzzes night and day. The 3-km (2-mile) sandy beach, Playa de las Canteras, is protected by an offshore reef. Though often lumped under the collective title of Maspalomas, each of the three smart, new south-coast resorts has its own distinct characteristics: San Agustin is quiet and tidy; Playa del Ingles is more robust, with plenty of fun-and-sun package tour hotels plus some 50 discos at the last count; while Maspalomas is famous for its dunes, which are sufficiently large and unspoiled to constitute a sort of mini-Sahara. Maspalomas is known as an unofficial nudist beach.

Palmito Park, situated in a picturesque gorge some 13 km (8 miles) to the north of Maspalomas, provides an excellent family
day out. There are a variety of colourful caged birds in the beautiful gardens-parrots and other exotic free-flying residents, including toucans.
The mountainous heart of Gran Canaria offers wonderful views, as you clamber up through the almond groves and thick pine forests. The most popular vantage point is Cruz de Tejeda, at 1,463 metres (4,800 feet). Here, the panorama includes two rock formations. The most distinctive is the statuesque Roque Nublo (1,817 metres/5,961 feet) and the other is Roque Betaiga. Both were once worshipped by the Guanches, the original inhabitants of the Canaries who migrated from North Africa.

Lanzarote Spain

A later arrival on the tourist scene than either Gran Canaria or Tenerife, Lanzarote's development has been more controlled. It is a startling island, pock-marked with over 300 volcanoes. Still, the locals manage to grow onions, tomatoes, potatoes, melons, and grapes, which spring in abundance from the volcanic ash.

The island's main resort is Puerto del Carmen. Its long, golden beach stretches for several kilometres and comfortably accommodates visitors. The Costa Teguise, just to the north of Arrecife (Lanzarote's undistinguished capital), offers modern holiday accommodation and several good beaches. The Playa Cucheras is notable for water sports.

Follow the east-coast road north to Guatiza, where prickly pears abound. The beautiful Jardin de Cactus here was designed by Cesar Manrique. And there is more Manrique magic at the caves of Jameos del Agua, where a short fantasy journey through a landscaped grotto and underground lagoon takes you to a South Seas paradise. The highlight of a trip to Lanzarote is a visit to the Montaiias de Fuego (Mountains of Fire) in the Timanfaya National Park.
The stark but scenically magnificent park starts just north of Yaiza. The bizarre landscape of lava flows and rust-red mountains was largely formed over 16 months of cataclysmic volcanic activity during 1730-1731.

Just inside the volcanic malpais (badlands) of the park, you can take a camel ride up the slope of the volcanic cone. There is an information centre and car park at Islote de Hilario. Coach tours of 50 minutes depart from here every hour to explore the incredible lunar landscape.

Fuerteventura Spain

Situated less than 100 km (60 miles) off the coast of North Africa, Fuerteventura is a beach bum's paradise, courtesy of the Sahara. There are miles of golden sandy beach, and the winds that originally blew the sand here still ensure superb windsurfing. land Betancuria is an attractive oasis. Fuerteventura's first capital, it boasts the splendid 17th-century church of Santa Maria. At the southern tip of the island, the Jandia peninsula offers terrific beaches, the best of which are on the less-developed Costa Calma. The Playa de Sotavento is a world-famous wind­surfing area, and has terrific dunes.

La Gomera Spain information

A short boat trip to the south of Tenerife, Gomera remains an unspoiled island of steep, green terraced hills and tranquil val­leys. Boats and hydrofoils dock at San Sebastian, the chief town, notable for its connections with Christopher Columbus, including a local church where he prayed and the house where he supposedly stayed in 1492. A delight for walkers, the Garajonay National Park is a World Heritage site, and home to the Alto de Garajonay, Gomera's highest peak (1,487 metres/4,878 feet). The island's one and only beach resort is in the south, at the low-key Playa de Santiago.

La palma Spain

The most northwesterly of the Canaries, La Palma is lush and green. Santa Cruz de la Palma, the capital, is an appealing small town. There are two routes to choose from: a northern loop, which culminates at the world-renowned Palma observatory (closed to the public) on top of the Roque de los Muchachos, the
Highest peak in Palma (2,423 metres/7,950 feet). The highly recommended southern loop takes you to the magnificent Caldera de Taburiente. This giant crater has a circumference of some 27 km (17 miles) and drops around 700 metres (2,300 feet) into a fer­tile valley. It is perfect walking country with marvellous views.

El hierro Spain

Until the voyages of Columbus, EI Hierro was considered the end of the world, and little seems to have changed since. Few visitors arrive on the daily flight from Tenerife and tourist facilities are limited. Valverde is the tiny, quiet capital. The Mirador de la Pena, 8 km (5 miles) west of the airport, has fine views and good restaurants. There's a stretch of coast too, El Golfo, which is part of a partially submerged volcano.