The Rock of Cashel and airport car hire Ireland
If you are planning a visit to Ireland, hire a car from your arrival airport in Belfast, Dublin or Knock, and take your time to explore the fascinating cities and countryside of the country, including the Rock of Cashel.
The Rock of Cashel, with its spectacular grouping of historic ecclesiastical buildings, is one of Ireland's most striking landmarks and one of its most intriguing sights. Among the Irish, it was never referred to by so simple and unimpressive a name as mere Cashel, which is a curt and unromantic anglicization. Instead, it was known as Caiseal Mumhan, the stronghold of Munster or Cashel of the kings. For centuries the seat of the Munster kings, it also became the religious center of Ireland.
The small town of Cashel lies on the direct Dublin Cork road and laps at the foot of the Rock on the south side. Approached from any direction, the 300-foot rocky outcrop with its towers and battlements spiking out of the plain against the horizon always jolts the vision and the imagination. Floodlit at night, it is spectacularly beautiful. The Rock of Cashel is no less than Ireland's Acropolis.
A warrior tribe called the Eoghanachta (who probably originated in the present-day Killarney area) arrived here about the 4th century and, after subjugating the original inhabitants, built their stronghold on the Rock. In time they extended their power over the fertile plains until they loosely ruled all of Munster. For 500 years they retained their warlike ways, at the same time growing in political sophistication, and, as Kings of Cashel and then of Munster, refused to acknowledge the over lordship of even the O'Neill Kings of Tara.
From earliest history, Cashel had ecclesiastical connections. St. Patrick came to the Rock in 450 and converted King Aengus to Christianity. The story goes that when Patrick was baptizing the king, the point of his staff accidentally pierced the king's foot. Thinking that this was an essential part of the ceremony, King Aengus bore the wound unflinchingly. Patrick made Cashel a bishopric, and from that time, many of the rulers wielded the crozier as well as the sword.
The history of Cashel Ireland
During the 10th century, the fortress fell prey to Viking marauders, from whom it was rescued by the famous Brian Boru. Thereafter, the O’Brien’s _ the descendants of Brian held sway over Cashel and in 1101 made the magnanimous gesture of giving the Rock to the church. The Eoghanachta were at this time still lords of Cashel, although internecine warfare had reduced their status. Whatever they thought about Brian's gesture, they obviously came to terms with it. The last of their kings, Cormac, was responsible for the building of King Cormac's Chapel, the finest gem in the Rock's crown.
The Round Tower probably had been on the Rock since the 10th century. Work on the chapel was begun in 1127. The large cathedral that now dominates the group of buildings was begun in the 13th century, sometime after King Henry II of England had, so he thought, established his lordship over Ireland.
But nothing remains as simple as that in Ireland. In the centuries of agitation that followed, Cashel had its share of the troubles. The cathedral was urned down in 1495 by the tempestuous Earl of Kildare because, he explained to Henry, I thought the archbishop was inside an excuse that apparently so charmed the king that he later appointed the earl lord lieutenn of the kingdom. The cathedral was burned down again in 1647 and all inside, including 3,000 townspeople who had taken refuge there, perished.
After those terrible events, the buildings remained abandoned and derelict except for a short period when they were partly repaired for Protestant use: They were abandoned completely in 1749, and the cathedral roof stripped. It was said that the Archbishop Agar disliked the Sabbath climb to the top of the Rock. In 1874, the ruins were given to the state to be preserved as a national monument.
Cashel today
Compared with the importance and drama of the Rock, the town of Cashel is subdued and modest. It has a small population and consists of two thoroughfares, Main and Friar Streets, and a handful of side streets . Tour buses draw up by the dozens, but their comings and goings hardly impinge on the life of the town. Far from over commercializing their great site, the townspeople in some perverse way almost refuse to acknowledge it. Hardly a souvenir of Cashel can be found not a Rock T-shirt in sight.
This casual attitude has both its virtues and its shortcomings: It's nice not to be badgered and hustled with plastic Rocks and kelly green towers, but one could wish for more to enliven the evenings than a few old-fashioned pubs and the regular Irish Nights at Eru Eoru in summer Cashel's real preoccupation, as visitors will discover, is not the Rock and Its great pat, but hores. Cashel stands at the edge of the Golden Vale, a great sweep of fair and fertile lands bounded by the soft folds of Slievenamon, the Galtees, and the Knockmealdown Mountains.
On these fertile acres graze some of Ireland’s finest bloodstock. Up to a dozen stud farms or training stables are within 10 miles of the town, including that of the almost legendary Vincent O'Brien. And in this tiny town there are four turf accountants bookies, or betting shops.
Things to do in Cashel Ireland and car hire
To make the most of Cashel in Ireland, hire a car from the airport before you travel. To get the best view of the Rock from town, walk up Finar Street past both the Catholic church and the Protestant cathedral, and then look back. From here the Rock seems to sit on the roofs of the houses and shops, creating a strange perspective. Guests at the Cashel Palace originally the bishop's palace, get the best view of all.
The gardens lead directly to the gate of the Rock enclosure, and a paved way the Bishop's Walk leads up through the gardens. At night the Rock is floodlit, taking on something of the mystery of a fairy castle suspended in air, while far below, a fountain is caught in another spot of light. To see the town, ascend the Rock, and for the highest vantage point, go up into the tower. The small town is spread below, with its few modest 19th-century streets and handful of older buildings. Turn in the other direction and gaze over the miles and miles of emerald grasslands of the Golden Vale. The reason these fertile lands were so much fought over by opposing armies, native and usurper, is apparent.
Rock of Cashel The Rock comprises, in chronological order, the Round Tower, Cormac's Chapel, the cathedral, and the Hall of the Vicars Choral. Entrance is through the Hall of the Vicars Choral, which has been extensively renovated to create an exhibition area and visitors' center, which includes a new audiovisual program about the Rock and the surrounding area.
Vicars Choral - this complex of buildings is the most recent on the Rock, having been built in the 15th century to house the clergy of the •cathedral. To the right of the entrance is a vaulted room in which various stone carvings and other local finds are displayed. Here, too, is the massive Cross of St. Patrick, which stood for 800 years outside on the Rock. For safety, it has been brought indoors, and a replica now stands outside.
Tradition holds that the base of this cross was 'the coronation stone of the Kings of Munster. Upstairs is a restored dining hall with a minstrel gallery and kitchen, furnished to the period with authentic 15thcentury furniture.Cathedral Outside, beyond the replica of the Cross of St. Patrick, is the doorway to the 13th-century cathedral, the largest of the buildings. It has a nave, chancel, two transepts, a tower at the crossing, and a residential tower at the western end.
Though roofless and much ruined, it is worth examining for its interesting and attractive details, such as the fine arches of the center crossing and several tombs.Look out for humorous little carved heads peering from pillar tops and archways. Round Tower Leaving the cathedral by the doorway you entered, walk to the right around the building to the Round Tower at the northeastern corner. As usual with such structures, its doorway is high above the ground because it was used as a refuge as well as a bell tower in an attack. The exact date of its construction is not known, but it is probably late 10th century, certainly before the Rock was given to the church in 1101.
King Cormac's Chapel - Continue to the right around the cathedral to the gem of the Rock Cormac's Chapel. Even from a distance, this early small cathedral has a special glow. That's because it is built of warm colored sandstone, which shows up golden against the cold gray limestone of the larger building. The chapel, with its graceful arcading and steep stone roof, is regarded as the finest example of Irish Romanesque architecture.
Notice its two attractively carved doorways and chancel arch. Remnants of paintings can just be discerned on the chancel walls, indicating that once the whole interior glowed with color. There is a superbly carved stone sarcophagus in which a crozier, now in the National Museum in Dublin, was found. The chapel was built in 1127, shortly after the Round Tower was completed. When the larger cathedral was begun more than a century later, it had to be carefully fitted between the two, which explains some of the odd connections and dislocations of line.
Tours are conducted every hour on the hour, or more frequently as needed. Tom Wood is the supervisor guide Advice: Even if the day is warm and sunny, bring a windbreaker this is a drafty spot!Hore Abbey Cashel - The remains of this attractive abbey stand among the fields to the west of the Rock.It began as a Benedictine structure, but in 1272, when the local archbishop dreamed that the Benedictines were plotting to behead him, he banished them, replacing them with Cistercians from Mellifont Abbey in County Louth.
The result, after various alterations, is the usual Cistercian plan (simple and utilitarian), except that here the cloisters lie on the north side. (Cloisters were usually on the south so that monks could read and work warmed by the sun.) As it is not locked or guarded, visitors can stroll around the abbey at any time.
Old Palace Cashel was first built in 1730 as the archbishop's palace and later the residence of the Protestant dean, the Old Palace is now the Cashel Palace hotel (see Checking In). It is a beautiful example of the Queen Anne style, with a fine hall, original paneling, and a red pine staircase. The gardens run from the back of the house to the slopes of the Rock, with a pathway known as the Bishop's Walk leading for the gate. On the lawn are two sprawling mulberry trees, said to be even older than the house and to have been planted to celebrate Queen Anne's coronation in 1702.
Cashel Diocesan Library (GPA Bolton Library) The library of Archbishop Bolton, who built the Old Palace (above) and who died in 1741, is now housed in the Chapter House of the Protestant cathedral. Its treasures include 12th-century manuscripts, 15thcentury pointed books (incunabula), rare maps, and fine bindings.
There is also an exhibition of books (including a first edition of Chaucer), manuscripts, and church silver. Most of the material relates to theological and historical themes. Although there is a published catalogue, this remarkable collection has not been fully studied; it remains a resource for original research.
St. Dominic's Abbey is now little more than a shell, this abbey, founded in 1243, was an important Dominican establishment in its day. Note the fine 13thcentury window.
Holy Cross Abbey was founded in 1180, though later much altered, the abbey takes its name from a relic of the True Cross that was enshrined here. It has been a place of pilgrimage for centuries. A decade or two ago, it was a gaunt, if picturesque, ruin reflected in the quiet waters of the River Suir.It has since been re-roofed and extensively restored for use as a parish church. The interior is starkly plain and white, a treatment that shows its lines and details to best advantage.
Note the wall painting of a hunting scene on the north transept and the unusual pillared feature in the south transept, thought to have been where the fragment of the True Cross was kept. The cloisters are fairly well preserved, and there is a meditation garden by the river. The church proper is open daily year-round.
A separate building provides facilities for pilgrims and visitors, including a souvenir shop (where an excellent booklet, Holy Cross Abbey, can be purchased), a tourist information center, an audiovisual center, and a museum.
Although Ireland has excellent transport links, the best and most economical way to explore the stunning countryside and intriguing cities of Ireland is to pre-book a hire car from Dublin, Knock or Belfast Airport.
The Rock of Cashel, with its spectacular grouping of historic ecclesiastical buildings, is one of Ireland's most striking landmarks and one of its most intriguing sights. Among the Irish, it was never referred to by so simple and unimpressive a name as mere Cashel, which is a curt and unromantic anglicization. Instead, it was known as Caiseal Mumhan, the stronghold of Munster or Cashel of the kings. For centuries the seat of the Munster kings, it also became the religious center of Ireland.
The small town of Cashel lies on the direct Dublin Cork road and laps at the foot of the Rock on the south side. Approached from any direction, the 300-foot rocky outcrop with its towers and battlements spiking out of the plain against the horizon always jolts the vision and the imagination. Floodlit at night, it is spectacularly beautiful. The Rock of Cashel is no less than Ireland's Acropolis.
A warrior tribe called the Eoghanachta (who probably originated in the present-day Killarney area) arrived here about the 4th century and, after subjugating the original inhabitants, built their stronghold on the Rock. In time they extended their power over the fertile plains until they loosely ruled all of Munster. For 500 years they retained their warlike ways, at the same time growing in political sophistication, and, as Kings of Cashel and then of Munster, refused to acknowledge the over lordship of even the O'Neill Kings of Tara.
From earliest history, Cashel had ecclesiastical connections. St. Patrick came to the Rock in 450 and converted King Aengus to Christianity. The story goes that when Patrick was baptizing the king, the point of his staff accidentally pierced the king's foot. Thinking that this was an essential part of the ceremony, King Aengus bore the wound unflinchingly. Patrick made Cashel a bishopric, and from that time, many of the rulers wielded the crozier as well as the sword.
The history of Cashel Ireland
During the 10th century, the fortress fell prey to Viking marauders, from whom it was rescued by the famous Brian Boru. Thereafter, the O’Brien’s _ the descendants of Brian held sway over Cashel and in 1101 made the magnanimous gesture of giving the Rock to the church. The Eoghanachta were at this time still lords of Cashel, although internecine warfare had reduced their status. Whatever they thought about Brian's gesture, they obviously came to terms with it. The last of their kings, Cormac, was responsible for the building of King Cormac's Chapel, the finest gem in the Rock's crown.
The Round Tower probably had been on the Rock since the 10th century. Work on the chapel was begun in 1127. The large cathedral that now dominates the group of buildings was begun in the 13th century, sometime after King Henry II of England had, so he thought, established his lordship over Ireland.
But nothing remains as simple as that in Ireland. In the centuries of agitation that followed, Cashel had its share of the troubles. The cathedral was urned down in 1495 by the tempestuous Earl of Kildare because, he explained to Henry, I thought the archbishop was inside an excuse that apparently so charmed the king that he later appointed the earl lord lieutenn of the kingdom. The cathedral was burned down again in 1647 and all inside, including 3,000 townspeople who had taken refuge there, perished.
After those terrible events, the buildings remained abandoned and derelict except for a short period when they were partly repaired for Protestant use: They were abandoned completely in 1749, and the cathedral roof stripped. It was said that the Archbishop Agar disliked the Sabbath climb to the top of the Rock. In 1874, the ruins were given to the state to be preserved as a national monument.
Cashel today
Compared with the importance and drama of the Rock, the town of Cashel is subdued and modest. It has a small population and consists of two thoroughfares, Main and Friar Streets, and a handful of side streets . Tour buses draw up by the dozens, but their comings and goings hardly impinge on the life of the town. Far from over commercializing their great site, the townspeople in some perverse way almost refuse to acknowledge it. Hardly a souvenir of Cashel can be found not a Rock T-shirt in sight.
This casual attitude has both its virtues and its shortcomings: It's nice not to be badgered and hustled with plastic Rocks and kelly green towers, but one could wish for more to enliven the evenings than a few old-fashioned pubs and the regular Irish Nights at Eru Eoru in summer Cashel's real preoccupation, as visitors will discover, is not the Rock and Its great pat, but hores. Cashel stands at the edge of the Golden Vale, a great sweep of fair and fertile lands bounded by the soft folds of Slievenamon, the Galtees, and the Knockmealdown Mountains.
On these fertile acres graze some of Ireland’s finest bloodstock. Up to a dozen stud farms or training stables are within 10 miles of the town, including that of the almost legendary Vincent O'Brien. And in this tiny town there are four turf accountants bookies, or betting shops.
Things to do in Cashel Ireland and car hire
To make the most of Cashel in Ireland, hire a car from the airport before you travel. To get the best view of the Rock from town, walk up Finar Street past both the Catholic church and the Protestant cathedral, and then look back. From here the Rock seems to sit on the roofs of the houses and shops, creating a strange perspective. Guests at the Cashel Palace originally the bishop's palace, get the best view of all.
The gardens lead directly to the gate of the Rock enclosure, and a paved way the Bishop's Walk leads up through the gardens. At night the Rock is floodlit, taking on something of the mystery of a fairy castle suspended in air, while far below, a fountain is caught in another spot of light. To see the town, ascend the Rock, and for the highest vantage point, go up into the tower. The small town is spread below, with its few modest 19th-century streets and handful of older buildings. Turn in the other direction and gaze over the miles and miles of emerald grasslands of the Golden Vale. The reason these fertile lands were so much fought over by opposing armies, native and usurper, is apparent.
Rock of Cashel The Rock comprises, in chronological order, the Round Tower, Cormac's Chapel, the cathedral, and the Hall of the Vicars Choral. Entrance is through the Hall of the Vicars Choral, which has been extensively renovated to create an exhibition area and visitors' center, which includes a new audiovisual program about the Rock and the surrounding area.
Vicars Choral - this complex of buildings is the most recent on the Rock, having been built in the 15th century to house the clergy of the •cathedral. To the right of the entrance is a vaulted room in which various stone carvings and other local finds are displayed. Here, too, is the massive Cross of St. Patrick, which stood for 800 years outside on the Rock. For safety, it has been brought indoors, and a replica now stands outside.
Tradition holds that the base of this cross was 'the coronation stone of the Kings of Munster. Upstairs is a restored dining hall with a minstrel gallery and kitchen, furnished to the period with authentic 15thcentury furniture.Cathedral Outside, beyond the replica of the Cross of St. Patrick, is the doorway to the 13th-century cathedral, the largest of the buildings. It has a nave, chancel, two transepts, a tower at the crossing, and a residential tower at the western end.
Though roofless and much ruined, it is worth examining for its interesting and attractive details, such as the fine arches of the center crossing and several tombs.Look out for humorous little carved heads peering from pillar tops and archways. Round Tower Leaving the cathedral by the doorway you entered, walk to the right around the building to the Round Tower at the northeastern corner. As usual with such structures, its doorway is high above the ground because it was used as a refuge as well as a bell tower in an attack. The exact date of its construction is not known, but it is probably late 10th century, certainly before the Rock was given to the church in 1101.
King Cormac's Chapel - Continue to the right around the cathedral to the gem of the Rock Cormac's Chapel. Even from a distance, this early small cathedral has a special glow. That's because it is built of warm colored sandstone, which shows up golden against the cold gray limestone of the larger building. The chapel, with its graceful arcading and steep stone roof, is regarded as the finest example of Irish Romanesque architecture.
Notice its two attractively carved doorways and chancel arch. Remnants of paintings can just be discerned on the chancel walls, indicating that once the whole interior glowed with color. There is a superbly carved stone sarcophagus in which a crozier, now in the National Museum in Dublin, was found. The chapel was built in 1127, shortly after the Round Tower was completed. When the larger cathedral was begun more than a century later, it had to be carefully fitted between the two, which explains some of the odd connections and dislocations of line.
Tours are conducted every hour on the hour, or more frequently as needed. Tom Wood is the supervisor guide Advice: Even if the day is warm and sunny, bring a windbreaker this is a drafty spot!Hore Abbey Cashel - The remains of this attractive abbey stand among the fields to the west of the Rock.It began as a Benedictine structure, but in 1272, when the local archbishop dreamed that the Benedictines were plotting to behead him, he banished them, replacing them with Cistercians from Mellifont Abbey in County Louth.
The result, after various alterations, is the usual Cistercian plan (simple and utilitarian), except that here the cloisters lie on the north side. (Cloisters were usually on the south so that monks could read and work warmed by the sun.) As it is not locked or guarded, visitors can stroll around the abbey at any time.
Old Palace Cashel was first built in 1730 as the archbishop's palace and later the residence of the Protestant dean, the Old Palace is now the Cashel Palace hotel (see Checking In). It is a beautiful example of the Queen Anne style, with a fine hall, original paneling, and a red pine staircase. The gardens run from the back of the house to the slopes of the Rock, with a pathway known as the Bishop's Walk leading for the gate. On the lawn are two sprawling mulberry trees, said to be even older than the house and to have been planted to celebrate Queen Anne's coronation in 1702.
Cashel Diocesan Library (GPA Bolton Library) The library of Archbishop Bolton, who built the Old Palace (above) and who died in 1741, is now housed in the Chapter House of the Protestant cathedral. Its treasures include 12th-century manuscripts, 15thcentury pointed books (incunabula), rare maps, and fine bindings.
There is also an exhibition of books (including a first edition of Chaucer), manuscripts, and church silver. Most of the material relates to theological and historical themes. Although there is a published catalogue, this remarkable collection has not been fully studied; it remains a resource for original research.
St. Dominic's Abbey is now little more than a shell, this abbey, founded in 1243, was an important Dominican establishment in its day. Note the fine 13thcentury window.
Holy Cross Abbey was founded in 1180, though later much altered, the abbey takes its name from a relic of the True Cross that was enshrined here. It has been a place of pilgrimage for centuries. A decade or two ago, it was a gaunt, if picturesque, ruin reflected in the quiet waters of the River Suir.It has since been re-roofed and extensively restored for use as a parish church. The interior is starkly plain and white, a treatment that shows its lines and details to best advantage.
Note the wall painting of a hunting scene on the north transept and the unusual pillared feature in the south transept, thought to have been where the fragment of the True Cross was kept. The cloisters are fairly well preserved, and there is a meditation garden by the river. The church proper is open daily year-round.
A separate building provides facilities for pilgrims and visitors, including a souvenir shop (where an excellent booklet, Holy Cross Abbey, can be purchased), a tourist information center, an audiovisual center, and a museum.
Although Ireland has excellent transport links, the best and most economical way to explore the stunning countryside and intriguing cities of Ireland is to pre-book a hire car from Dublin, Knock or Belfast Airport.
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